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The James E. Pepper Distillery Gets A Facelift

While some distilleries are getting a facelift to resurrect a piece of their former glory, the former James E. Pepper distillery in Lexington, Kentucky is moving into a new era with a fresh, yet controversial, coat of paint.

Sponsored by PRHBTN and crowd funded by the residents of Lexington and beyond, the mural is an extremely large “self-portrait” created by French artist MTO located on the large warehouse that faces all who approach the complex from downtown Lexington via Manchester Street.

There is a narrative to the artwork showcased in the video and transcribed below. While some of the points made in the narrative don’t necessarily apply to the James Pepper Distillery, they are valid for most others during the era of Prohibition.

If anything, the video provides a glimpse into the ruins of the distillery that I haven’t had the chance to explore myself in many years, and that most have never had the chance to see.

Video Transcription

My Name Is Mo and this is my story..

In 1919 the “Volstead Act” declared effective alcohol prohibition in United States. All distilleries in the country closed. One after another. The black market network developed, bringing the creation of clandestine distilleries.

In 1933 prohibition was abolished and legal alcohol production started again, but numerous companies stayed closed because 14 years of inactivity rendered them obsolete. They were too degraded to start again.

I was born 40 years later in 1973, in a small city in Kentucky named Lexington. In the early nineties I was a teenager and fascinated by the New York art scene, particularly by the recent rise of a new form of illegal art called graffiti.

I started scheming around every corners of my city with aerosol spray cans and wrote my name everywhere I went. One day while I was painting in an old abandoned distillery, police saw me from afar and tried to arrest me. I fled into the huge empty warehouse next to it, formerly used for bourbon storage and refining.

The police didn’t find me. But in passing they closed and locked the door I used to come in. I found myself alone and trapped in this very big structure without anyone knowing I was there. Two days passed without finding any means to escape. So I was forced to accept my sad fate. I was going to die here alone!

However I made a very surprising discovery when I was looking for a way to escape. I found a small trap door very well hidden under a mound of trash. This door led to an enormous subterranean network containing a gargantuan stockpile of fine aged bourbon. This amazing cache of bourbon had been most likely concealed by very well organized smugglers during prohibition and had never been found as the smugglers spent their final days in jail.

In desperation, I started to drink recklessly in order to hasten my death and maybe add a little joy and delusion. But then – something absolutely unexpected and inexplicable happened: I didn’t die. Despite the lack of food and water, the bourbon was nourishing me. It was keeping me alive.

As time passed my body was undergoing some very disturbing changes to say the least. Two arms started to grow from my back, and the gas mask I usually use to paint slowly started to graft to my face, which had become disfigured.

But above all the most impressing thing was that I started growing. Growing a lot. So much growing that people in Lexington eventually discovered me, but it was too late. Nearly 25 years had passed, I couldn’t go back to a regular life.

I had become a monster.

A Brief History of the James E. Pepper Distillery

James E. Pepper Distillery 1936

For starters, the artist mentions all distilleries were closed as a result of Prohibition, but this is simply not true. Some distilleries remained open and the Pepper Distillery was one of them. To portray this structure as a symbol of the devastation caused by prohibition, as the artist does, is misleading. As Richard Thomas summarizes,

“The Pepper distillery was one of a handful in America that survived the Prohibition era intact, largely because it became both a licensed ‘medicinal whiskey’ producer and because it became an official warehouse agent under the Federal government’s concentration-and-control scheme for Prohibition era spirits.”

There were two major reasons a distillery survived Prohibition, and the James Pepper Distillery benefitted from both. The first was the Liquor Concentration Act of 1922, which consolidated stocks of whiskey in select warehouses under government supervision. At the beginning of Prohibition there were about 800 bonded warehouses housing whiskey nationwide, but by 1922 most stocks had been transferred to Kentucky. Due to its stability, and ability to securely store large amounts of whiskey, the James E. Pepper Distillery was designated as one of the sites to house this stock. Other notable distilleries to house whiskey during this period were the George T. Stagg distillery, The Glenmore Distillery, and the Old Grand Dad Distillery.

The second way a distillery survived Prohibition was through the supervised production and sale of whiskey for medicinal purposes. During the time leading up to prohibition, whiskey had already established a market as an antiseptic and painkiller, and was also prescribed by physicians to fight influenza. Since the late 1800s, Pepper and other producers had already marketed their whiskey products as such.

During Prohibition, Kentucky was among 25 other states to sanction whiskey for medicinal purposes, and those distilleries designated to maintain production and sales of whiskey throughout Prohibition were able to maintain brand recognition, but more importantly, profit. As a testament to this, by 1923 James E. Pepper whiskey was endorsed by more than 40,000 physicians nationwide, with cases being sold at almost six times their pre-Prohibition price.

After the repeal of prohibition in 1933, the Pepper Distillery was poised for expansion. In 1934, the distillery was one of many acquired by Schenley to create what would become the largest distilling company in the United States through expansion of modern industrial production capacity.

The Pepper distillery’s physical significance lies not only in its pre-prohibition existence, but in its technological and overall production advances during the post-repeal era. It is a great example of success and resilience during prohibition, as well as the acceleration of industrial technology post-repeal.

Unfortunately, despite overcoming many obstacles since repeal, World War II for example, the distillery eventually ended production in 1958.

Artistic Parallels

MTO James E Pepper Distillery

While perhaps not a parallel with this particular distillery, the conceptualization of Prohibition detailed in the work’s narrative does parallel the long-time “oppression” of street art, as graffiti and whiskey-making have both been considered poisons to society. It’s a stretch to entertain the thought, but it’s there nonetheless.

Considering the history, the artwork (although ironically unintentional and misaligned) does draw a comparison between the distillery’s resilience and the place of street art in the city of Lexington through creating such an audacious piece of work on such a significant piece of history. This certainly breeds discourse, which I suppose is the end goal of this piece [in negligence of the blatant narcissism].

What strikes me as amusing is the fact that this mural screams of the oppressive stature society holds towards its genre of art, yet it was legally commissioned and as such will remain in place without threat of removal.

Prohibition was a massively oppressive move to destroy the spirits business, but it seems those with enough money and the right connections made it through hard times relatively unscathed. If anything is oppressed today, or imprisoned as the mural depicts, it’s those in the neighborhood with a negative opinion of the art, not the art itself.

On a positive note, Lexington’s art scene now boasts another gigantic mural created by an internationally known artist. Is this work another a beacon of the city’s creative ability [to bring in outside talent]?

The Arts and The Distillery District

The bigger picture that has often been overlooked by many is the recent history of Lexington’s distillery district which, since distilleries shut their doors long ago, has been more of a home to artists and artistic event spaces than it has been to distilling (at least until recently). Despite numerous attempts to revitalize the area, it would likely remain neglected to this day if it were not for artists calling attention to it.

New business has slowly moved into the area as the city’s downtown naturally expands, but this particular part of town still isn’t frequented by the average Lexingtonian. The paradox is that some claim such artwork makes this area even less inviting than the solitary deprecated and abandoned buildings lining its streets for many years, which brings us to the controversy, and at which point I digress.

Hats off to PRHBTN and MTO for pulling off a massive feat.

Related Reading

Whiskey in History: James E. Pepper

The James E. Pepper Distillery and Lexington’s Lost Bourbon Industry

James E. Pepper Distillery, Lexington, KY Historic Context [PDF]

Manchester St mural causes concern, sparks discussion about public art

Four Grain Bourbon Blends With Four Roses, Old Grand Dad, and Old Weller Antique

A long time ago on a trip to New York City, a friend of mine introduced me to Hudson Four Grain Bourbon Whiskey. While I don’t remember being too enthusiastic about it, it was interesting. Ever since that trip I’ve tossed around the idea of creating my own four grain Bourbon blend…at a higher proof.

There aren’t too many wheated Bourbons in my collection that I’d (1) want to waste by blending them with something else and/or (2) thought had a character that would stand up and dance with a high rye Bourbon, but what I did know was that I had a few high rye bourbons I wanted to mellow out.

Let’s review the lineup…

Old Weller Antique 107

I recently put this up in a blind taste test and was impressed at how well it fared. My tasting notes in that post don’t reflect my complete sentiments, but the lineup and its rank should be enough to say I think this is a great bourbon. It has an even mix of corn, wood, and dried fruit, but could use a little bulk.

Grade: B+

Old Grand Dad 114

Not bad but rough around the edges with a flat, astringent nose that carries an unusual dry oak character. The body is thin and finishes on the bitter side. I don’t want to imply that I don’t like it, but I’m hoping something sweet might do it justice.

Grade: C+

Four Roses OBSQ

I chose this as both a comparison and a whiskey I actually thought would marry well with a wheat profile. The Q yeast produces a relaxed whiskey that brings out beautiful rye in a unique fashion. It has an unusual character that is most apparent through a floral and peppery finish that comes forward to what feels like the roof of the mouth and dissipates evenly.

This particular selection is from Beaumont Kroger in Lexington, Kentucky. Aged 10 years and 4 months and bottled at 61.6% ABV. (Thank you Pam for the heads up on this steal at ~$40.)

Grade: B+

Now on to the main event (yes there was beer cheese)…

four grain bourbon blending

Blend #1: OGDOWA “Antique Grandpa”

A 50/50 blend of Old Grand-Dad 114 & Old Weller Antique 107, 110.5%

Right from the start the astringency on the Old Grand-Dad nose is muted from the nose, but there’s a new off note that I can’t put my finger on. Maybe oiled saddle leather?

A bouquet of dried fruit is big and pleasant, but the sweetness of the Weller I hoped would shine through is cut by wood, and then back to that leather. This does sweeten over time, but not enough.

The palate enters sweet and creamy, but lasts only for a moment as rye notes fall to the sides of the tongue just before the bitter finish of the Old Grand-Dad takes over.

Grade: C

Blend #2: 4ROWA “Wheat Rose”

A 50/50 blend of Four Roses OBSQ & Old Weller Antique 107, 115.1%

There are faint buttery notes in the Weller that are brought to the forefront and mingle very nicely with the rye from the OBSQ. Very nice cedar notes present a harmonious honeyed wood nose in this blend. A bit of a burn up front from the high proof, but it’s beautiful and brings forward the cask and age of the Four Roses.

On the palate the heat from the rye is toned down a few notches but, the fuzzy, dry mouth feel is heightened as caramel lingers on the tip of the tongue. If I were a scientist I’d study this in more detail, it’s fantastic and cues up a gorgeous, long finish.

Grade: B+

Comments

Antique Grandpa: Not that good. Looks like cocktails and blind tastings from here on out for the Old Grand-Dad 114.

Wheat Rose: The age of the Four Roses definitely gives the ensemble a huge advantage in terms of comparison, but on it’s own it’s actually a solid whiskey. I’ll even venture to say this might be a little better at ratio of 55% OWA / 45% OBSQ. Definitely more experimenting with these in the future. I’d recommend doing the same if you can.

Cheers!

Wild Turkey Diamond Anniversary Bourbon Whiskey Review

I picked up this bottle the weekend after it’s initial release from the Wild Turkey gift shop, which I believe was May of this year. Once I got it home I nipped away at it from time to time, but eventually it made it’s way to the back of the cabinet and started to collect dust. A recent conversation with Edwin Vargas led to me sending a sample to Cleveland and pouring out another glass for myself.

Wild Turkey Diamond Anniversary Bourbon

The Whiskey

Wild Turkey Diamond Anniversary is a blend of 13 and 16 year old bourbon to commemorate Jimmy Russell’s 60th anniversary in the business, selected by Jimmy’s son and Associate Distiller, Eddie Russell.

Notes

This is a whiskey with character right from the introduction. The wood notes are dry and subtle; very reminiscent of spent hickory sticks, or perhaps that’s my childhood growing up through olfactory memory? Perhaps not.

Imagine the combination of wood pallets lying stationary in the sun and other elements for too long, combined with the fraying exposed beams supporting the facade of an old barn. Dark and faded. Toasting comes through. Stressed, but strong.

What an interesting character. Caramel arrives with perfume-like notes of lemon and citrus. The more time this spends swirling in my glass, the sweeter it gets.

Then the palate. Dry. I don’t typically drink much Wild Turkey as I find it a little too dry and spicy (but I do love it in a heavy-poured cocktail), and this is very familiar. Of course this is much more refined and sophisticated, but it’s still too familiar. Herbal and, well, no not quite that, Earthy is what I’m looking for.

The finish is fairly abrupt, but clean. The initial dry wood notes from the bouquet reemerge here, but they don’t linger for long. The tongue is almost immediately relieved of all duties of carrying flavor and weight. If you’ve had a sip of water within thirty seconds of drinking, you may miss it completely.

As time begins to pass, I’m left wondering if I’ve just finished mowing a field of extremely tall grass in late summer.

Comments

This is a very well put-together bourbon that doesn’t jump out in one direction. It’s well-rounded with a unique character that I respect and enjoy, but I can’t bring myself to completely fall in love with it.

The price doesn’t help it’s case much, either. I have immense respect for Jimmy and and feel privileged to own this bottle, but at $125 I’m hesitant to recommend it to most friends. That’s what we’re going for here, right?

This is definitely a whiskey I’ll reserve for particular occasions. The next time I’m bundled up next to a fire outside, I’ll reach for this. That sounds nice.

Grade: B

Maker’s Mark Cask Strength Bourbon Whisky Review

I’m one of those people who consider the standard Maker’s Mark to be a one-trick pony, but that doesn’t mean I think it’s a bad pour. The drinkability and quality are apparent, and I enjoy some from time to time (usually when someone orders it for me without consent), but its personality is a little too relaxed for my tastes.

Despite that, there’s always been a mischievous voice in the back of my head whispering, “those nice people at Maker’s Mark are hiding something…

Well, they were.

Hello, Maker’s Mark Cask Strength, I’m glad you ditched the water and came out of the shadows. How very full circle of you.

makers-mark-cask-strength

The Whiskey

A delicious barrel proof Maker’s Mark at 113.2 proof.

Notes

A bouquet of beautiful oak aromas leading to thick, caramelized notes begin the introduction. There’s a soft astringency, undoubtedly a minor consequence of proof, but it is so faint it adds more to the experience than it detracts. Some more age would do this justice. Toffee backed up by mild citrus come through in concert. Burnt honey joins in with some dark tropical fruit. Elegant.

The balance of the palate is quirky at first. The alcohol doesn’t seem to find perfect harmony with the entire ensemble, but the key word there is perfect. Wood and cinnamon spice notes are big here, but at the proof the palate is pleasant.

The quality of this whisky is in the finish. It’s long, and as the spice dissipates I’m left with pleasant lingering flavors of oats, molasses, and corn. I’m sure this is almost exactly what I imagine the smell of sweet feed tastes like.

Comments

I love that this is bottled as a 375ml because it makes it an accessible purchase. At about $40 it seems a bit pricey, but it’s worth it. It would be a decent value at $70 for a full 750ml, but I’d personally think twice before pulling the trigger at that price judging from my experience with Maker’s Mark in the past.

If you’re already a fan of Maker’s Mark you will enjoy this. It goes great with a little water for those who don’t like to drink at barrel proof, but at 56.6% it doesn’t quite kick your ass either.

If you’re like me and want a reason to really stand behind Maker’s Mark, this it it. I certainly enjoyed it.

Grade: somewhere between B+ and A-

Let’s hope this makes it into the regular product lineup. At the time of this post, this is only available at the distillery gift shop in Loretto, Kentucky, and a few select outlets across the country.

Jefferson’s Presidential Select 21 Year Old Rye Whiskey Review

It’s the middle of October, which means it’s 80 degrees and sunny here in Charleston, South Carolina. It’s appropriate weather for a lazy Sunday afternoon, and since I’m the only one I know not cooped up on a couch or hanging out in a sports bar drooling over a football game, I figured I’d pour a sample of Jefferson’s 21 year Rye, head to the park, and revisit a whiskey I’ve been on the fence about for almost a year.

Jefferson's Presidential Select 21 Year Rye Whiskey

The last, first, and only time I’ve had a pour of this whiskey was last winter with friends and family back in Kentucky. It was an exceptionally brutal winter where tending to horses outside in the cold led to an agenda of opening some strong winter warmers. Of course, rye was the top priority on that list.

This Jefferson’s whiskey didn’t leave a lasting impression then, but it was also unfairly mixed up with some more–dare I say–sophisticated company that stole the spotlight (more on those in posts to follow). I imagined an isolated tasting in a more serene setting might prove beneficial to its cause. Let’s get to the notes and find out.

The Whiskey

Jefferson’s Presidential Select 21 Year Old Straight Rye Whiskey. This sample is poured from Batch 2 at 90.4 proof.

Notes

Light notes of smooth caramel jump right out of the glass in a big way as a tiny burn hits the back of the sinuses. Syrupy and sweet. Others have noted maple, but I’m not getting much of that here. As it opens up, darker notes emerge and the nose relaxes into subtle clove and anise. A very pleasant first act after a sweet introduction.

This whiskey drinks a little hotter than you’d expect at 90.4 proof, but it’s not aggressive. The sweetness of the nose doesn’t follow to the palate, and the caramel is almost lost, but that isn’t necessarily not to be expected. The mouthfeel is a little thin and dry. Toasted oak notes hang out with hints of black cherry. Not bad.

Faint traces of anise hit the back of the throat just before a bitter finish introduces itself. There’s a lingering funkiness that calls for a sip of water. In the same fashion as mentioned before, the funky finish isn’t aggressive, but it’s definitely there.

Comments

Overall I’d say this would be a solid grab at a price point in the range of $40-$60, but at well north of $100, not so much. The nose is as fantastic as it is misleading. Definitely a good pour, but nothing special in my opinion. The finish just doesn’t do it’s job and that’s where I’m left making the final call.

Grade: B

I suppose my initial sentiments stand, but I still had an enjoyable sip in the park with beautiful weather. Perhaps that’s worth a B+?

Cheers.