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Tag: Four Roses OBSQ

Decoding Four Roses Part 1: A Brief History & Blind Tasting of All 10 Recipes

Today, Four Roses consistently produces some of the most high-quality Bourbon on the market. I’d argue it is among the best, if not the best.

But it hasn’t always been that way. At least not in the United States.

Prohibition, Prominence, and Seagrams

After surviving prohibition through being one of the few distilleries allowed to produce medicinal whiskey, and later reigning for decades as the top-selling bourbon in the United States (Frankfort Distillers was the nation’s 5th largest liquor business between Four Roses and Paul Jones), Seagrams purchased the brand in 1943 for $42m.

Four Roses Ad in background, 1945

Alfred Eisenstaedt’s famous photo captures a prominent Four Roses Advertisement in Times Square, 1945. The large illuminated and animated sign featuring neon roses that “grew” alongside the logo below which read “A Truly Great Whiskey” was first introduced in 1938 and remained until 1945. Due to it’s visiblity from distances as far away as the Statue of Liberty, it was turned off at dark during WWII so it could not be used it as a target.

Despite its history, Seagrams had different plans for Four Roses. Being the blended whiskey giant they were, they acquired many distilleries to produce whiskey for their blends. Four Roses didn’t escape this fate. By the 1950s, it had become a blended whiskey and was only producing bourbon for export markets. In America, the product slipped into a decades-long dark age that over time saw it fall from the spotlight on the top shelf to the dark and dusty crevices of the bottom.

Four Roses Whiskey ad 1943

A Blend of Straight Whiskies, 1943

Fortunately, after changing hands multiple times, Four Roses was eventually purchased by Kirin Brewery Company in 2002. Under new ownership who understood the quality and potential of their newly acquired Bourbon, the brand eventually returned to the level of prominence it experiences today.

This renaissance was of course in large part due to the vision and dedication of Master Distiller Jim Rutledge, who had worked with the brand in various capacities since beginning his tenure with Seagrams in 1966.

Starting in research and development, Jim moved to work out of Seagram’s corporate office in New York City in 1975. He returned to Kentucky in 1992 after 17 years in New York and became Master Distiller in 1994 with the goal of bringing Four Roses Bourbon back to the United States. That same year, Four Roses Yellow Label was introduced into the domestic market, beginning with extremely limited quantities only available in Kentucky.

Since returning to Kentucky, Jim and his team have incrementally brought back the respect the Four Roses brand deserves by focusing more on what’s inside the bottle than what’s on the outside. The result of that focus has been nothing short of spectacular.

60% Grain Neutral Spirits by 1953

60% Grain Neutral Spirits, 1953

I’m still reeling a bit from all the recognition of my 40th anniversary last year – especially Malt Advocates’ Life Time Achievement Award – and it keeps going. After all these years doing something I absolutely love it keeps getting better and better. For so many years while with Seagram I tried and tried to get them to discontinue production and sale of that *#*&*^ blended whiskey, with our name on it, let it die away and ultimately bring our Four Roses Bourbon back to the U.S. I reminded Seagram marketing people over and over that we were the number one selling Bourbon in the U.S. for a period of time prior to Prohibition and for three decades after Prohibition for a Good Reason – we have a Great Bourbon. Even if I didn’t agree, I honestly understood their logic. They all reminded me that their predecessors – begining in the 40’s ruined the renowned name for Four Roses Bourbon when they introduced a blended whiskey (made mostly in Indiana and Maryland) with our name on the label. It still devastates me that an industry giant, like Seagram, could go out of business primarily because of one person. I have so many Seagram friends and many have struggled since December 2001. However, for me personally, I’m continuing to live a dream come true. Not a lot of people gave us much of a chance, but I believed in our Bourbon and I felt over time that we could shed the image of the blended whiskey and people would once again come to respect and love Four Roses Bourbon for what it is – a Great Premium Bourbon.

"Let us underwhelm you" American Light Whiskey by 1973

American Light Whiskey, 1973

I look around at the people at Four Roses and see the pride in their faces now that Four Roses is on its way back “home.” We’re relatively small in numbers but our hearts are huge and our energy seems to be endless. I hope I can somehow slow the Clock of Life down and stay on for years to come. I now have over 41 years in the business, but I feel like I’m still a Kid in a Candy shop, and I want to be around when Four Roses Bourbon is truly a global brand – including all of the USA. We’re on our way….

- Jim Rutledge, 2008

When the transition to Kirin took place I was only 19, but by the time the single barrel product hit shelves I was 21 and enjoying it. Not much has changed since then.

And I’m not the only one who shares the sentiment. You don’t have to try hard in the Bourbon world to find a fan of Four Roses, but you will have a hard time finding someone with bad things to say.  Because of this, the demand has grown exponentially over the past few years, with sales figures increasing by more than 350% from 2011 to 2014.

The vision and passion has payed off, and on that note Jim Rutledge recently announced his retirement effective September 1 of this year (2015), but not before announcing a $55 million expansion that will double the Lawrenceburg distillery’s capacity.

Hats off to you, Jim!

10 Distinct Recipes

Four Roses Distillery in Lawrenceburg Kentucky

Four Roses Distillery in Lawrenceburg Kentucky

The main unique aspect of Four Roses is their 10 different recipes they produce to supply their core Bourbon lineup.

Here are the basics:

Two different Mash Bills:

  1. E Mash Bill “High-Corn”: 20% Rye, 75% Corn, 5% Malted Barley
  2. B Mash Bill “High-Rye”: 35% Rye,  60% Corn, 5% Malted Barley

5 Yeast Strains:

  1. VLight fruitiness, light vanilla, caramel & creamy
  2. KLight spiciness, light caramel & full-bodied
  3. ORich fruitiness, light vanilla, caramel & full-bodied
  4. Q – Essences of floral aromas
  5. FEssences of herbal aromas

The combination of each Mash Bill with each yeast strain produces 10 recipes:

  1. OBSVB Mash Bill, V yeast.
  2. OESV - E Mash Bill, V yeast.
  3. OBSK B Mash Bill, K yeast.
  4. OESK E Mash Bill, K yeast.
  5. OBSO B Mash Bill, O yeast.
  6. OESO E Mash Bill, O yeast.
  7. OBSQ B Mash Bill, Q yeast.
  8. OESQ E Mash Bill, Q yeast.
  9. OBSF B Mash Bill, F yeast.
  10. OESF E Mash Bill, F yeast.

The “O” in each recipe means the whiskey was distilled at the Four Roses distillery in Lawrenceburg, Kentucky.

The “S” in each recipe designates Straight Whiskey.

These recipes, or most importantly the individual yeast strains, originate from the Kentucky distillery network previously operated by Seagrams. This network consisted of:

  • Calvert in Louisville
  • The Old Louis Hunter Distillery in Cynthiana
  • The Athertonville Distillery in LaRue County
  • The Henry Mckenna Distillery in Nelson County
  • The Old Prentice Distillery (Four Roses) in Lawrenceburg

Single-Story Warehouses

Four Roses Coxs Creek

Entrance to Four Roses’ Cox’s Creek facility with single-story warehouses in background.

The other unique aspect of Four Roses is that they age their distillate in single-story warehouses.

The barrel house complex at Cox’s Creek, which is about 50 miles from the distillery in Lawrenceburg and about 30 miles south of Louisville, was built in 1960 and encompasses 298 acres with warehouses alphabetically labeled from A to U.

An individual warehouse occupies approximately one acre of land but is only a single story high. Compared to the 35 degree temperature variance between the top and bottom levels of the average rick-house used in Kentucky, Four Roses’ warehouses have a comparatively small variance from top to bottom of only about 8 degrees.

All of this means the barrels stored inside Four Roses’ warehouses tend to age more evenly than they would in a standard warehouse.

Four Roses Core Products

Having so many recipe options is a luxury, and as a result every one of Four Roses’ flagship products is different. Their Yellow Label uses all 10 recipes, but you will not find the same recipe used for their Single Barrel in the Small Batch, unless it’s a special or private release bottle.

Four Roses Product Lineup

L to R: Small Batch, Yellow Label, Single Barrel

  • Four Roses Yellow Label – introduced in 1994 and is a blend of all 10 recipes
  • Four Roses Small Batch – introduced in 2006 and is a blend of OBSK, OESK, OBSO, and OESO
  • Four Roses Single Barrel - introduced in 2004 and is always OBSV

Now that we’ve covered the technicalities, let’s see how each recipe stacks up…

Lineup & Tasting Results

Four Roses Single Barrel Bottles

Photo by Matthew Preston of The Lexington Bourbon Society.

All recipes tasted and ranked in this post are private selections purchased in April 2014 from Liquor Barn Hamburg (Lexington, KY) and Liquor Barn Richmond Rd (Lexington, KY).

Here are the details for the individual bottles:

Recipe Age ABV Warehouse Barrel
OBSK 12 yr 53.2% DN 37-1N
OESK 10 yr, 3 mo 55.7% KW 85-1C
OBSV 11 yr, 3 mo 54.2% ME 2-1G
OESV 10 yr 57.2% GW 38-2S
OBSO 10 yr, 4 mo 55.3%  US  55-1A
OESO 11 yr, 5 mo 56.0% BN 30-3B
OBSQ 10 yr, 4 mo 58.8% JE 42-2I
OESQ 10 yr, 1 mo 59.0% RN 85-3H
OBSF 11 yr, 8 mo 59.1% HW 29-3Q
OESF 10 yr 6 mo 56.6% GE 5-2C

 

Tasting Sessions and Results:

Though not impossible, objectively tasting 10 whiskeys in one session is a bit much so I decided to break the tasting into two sessions: the first for Mash Bill E, and another for Mash Bill B.

To help with the ranking, I invited two friends who have decent experience and knowledge but who had not previously tasted all 10 recipes.

We tasted everything blind, or at least as blind as possible considering we knew which mash bill was represented in the first session.

First Session: E Mash Bills, April 21 2015

Four Roses E Mash Bill Tasting

The first session was relatively straight-forward with almost completely consistent results between myself and the other two tasters.

OESO and OESK we’re the strong favorites of the lineup. In my opinion comparing O to K, the O was lightyears ahead of the runner-up with an immediate presence of earthy and intriguingly vegetal notes that settled into a beautiful, thick and creamy palate that sweetened into caramelized sugar over time. With an exceptional finish, it was an easy pick for #1.

K was a bit darker with some fig and hints of licorice and honestly I was surprised to learn after the reveal that it was K. A high quality pour but less elegant than the OESO, it had a very well-rounded nose-to-palate-to-finish sequence that landed it in the #2 spot.

Interestingly, the single barrel standard V yeast was ranked right in the middle. It’s certainly a crowd pleaser so this result seemed appropriate.

OESF and OESQ we’re enjoyable, but not solid enough on all parts too make the cut. The F had some dry wood notes that weren’t fantastic and the Q was musty and for that it landed in last place.

E-Mash Bill Rankings
Rank My Rank Taster #1 Taster #2
1 OESO OESK OESO
2 OESK OESO OESK
3 OESV OESV OESV
4 OESF OESF OESQ
5 OESQ OESQ OESF

 

Four Roses B Mash Bill + Top 2 of E Mash Bill, July 23 2015

Four Roses B-E Mash Bill Tasting

For the second session, we took the top two picks from the E Mash Bill session (OESO & OESK) and placed them among all of the B Mash Bills. We also took ample time off between sessions to make sure we were coming in fresh and without any lingering palate memory. This would prove an important and interesting move as the results will show.

Almost immediately I honed in on a pleasant consistency between the OBSO and the OESO, but attempting to identify them blind proved difficult. I correctly identified the OBSO yeast, but incorrectly guessed that it was an E mash bill because I thought it was “too soft”. It was exceptionally well-rounded with baking spices hanging out alongside creamy vanilla cake icing. It had a cool, herbal note on the palate that led to a finish that was just spectacular.

The OESO followed closely. It lacked a sharp spiciness in comparison to the B Mash Bills, but more than made up for it with a thick buttery deliciousness that allowed the beautiful oak notes to shine through. I didn’t remember the wood being so prominent in the OESO tasted among the E Mash Bills.

Again, V yeast was ranked right in the middle of the spread but bumped up a few notches comparatively as OBSV. This seems uncanny but it honestly can’t be. In my notes I lead with “…has the most distinct Four Roses character” as I personally associate Four Roses mostly with the single barrel flagship, but overall it lacked a strong-enough finish to compete with OBSO and OESO.

The OBSK initially came off as over-oaked, but developed nicely into sweet chocolate and spices. It wasn’t strong on the palate but had a decent finish. Enjoyable but with quirks.

OBSQ had nice notes of sweet gum on the nose that led to a hot palate and a hot finish. I guessed this was F, but was wrong. I tend to often mix up F & Q when tasting blind. OBSF was more cinnamon-forward and just didn’t do it for me.

As for the OESK, it was overpowered by the B Mash Bills which muted its delicateness and brought out a metallic note that led me to reject it almost immediately. I want to revisit this one individually in the near future to get to the bottom of that.

B Mash Bill + Top 2 of E Mash Bill Ranking
Rank My Rank Taster #1 Taster #2
1 OBSO OBSF OBSK
2 OESO OBSQ OESO
3 OBSV OBSV OBSV
4 OBSK OBSO OESK
5 OBSQ OBSK OBSF
6 OBSF OESO OBSQ
7 OESK OESK OBSO

 

Summary

First things first, I’m both happy and surprised with my personal results. I was surprised that I leaned so heavily towards both O yeast recipes, but I welcome it with open arms as I’ve often overlooked OBSO and OESO private picks. Shame on me.

In this lineup there wasn’t a particular recipe in all 10 that I didn’t enjoy, it’s just that I enjoyed some more than others. And some preferences changed drastically in different contexts.

I’ve learned (again) that tasting is very subjective and comparison matters. Add to that the fact that the second round of results were very different between three tasters and it’s hard to come to a solid “this is the best” or “this is the overall favorite” recipe.

I also can’t help but wonder if any of the rejected E Mash Bills would have fared better overall had they been given the chance. With different company than what led me to really enjoy the OESK, it failed miserably. Maybe I wasn’t looking for the flaw the first time, or maybe the initial comparative sensory exercise wasn’t drastic enough for it to become a nuisance? Or, if I picked that one above 3 other E picks maybe the others completely suck?

I could do this all over again in 6 months and probably come to different results.

What I think is most important here is the understanding that–although highly influential–producing variety in Bourbon is well beyond a simple combination of grains and yeast. There are so many intricate variables I’ve not discussed in enough detail that create variety (barrels, weather, warehouse location, age, proof, etc.) that just looking at a recipe on a label and expecting it to be the best of the best by title alone is just dumb.

In other blind tastings similar to this one I’ve ranked OBSK, OESK, and even OBSQ on top. I’ve been completely repulsed by an OBSF in the past whereas I somewhat enjoyed both the F yeasts in this session.

The bottom line is that all of these are pretty damn good, but more importantly they’re consistent, as most Four Roses private selections tend to be. It’s a rare thing to get a bad one. If I were served any of these recipes individually, I’d find much about each of them to enjoy.

 

What do YOU think about these results?

Have you tasted all 10 Four Roses Recipes? Are you still trying to make your way through them?

I’m conducting a survey to see how the community’s preference at large stacks up against these results. If you have 5 minutes to answer 3 easy questions, it would be much appreciated!

—–> TAKE THE FOUR ROSES SURVEY!

I’ll be publishing the survey results and other interesting information very soon in Part 2!

Cheers!

*Much of the information presented in this post is referenced from Al Young’s book, Four Roses The Return of a Whiskey Legend. It is highly recommended reading for anyone interested in more detail on the subject.

If you’re looking for more information about recipes, I highly recommend covering the basics from the source, then reading what Sippn’ Corn has to say. And of course, questions are always encouraged in the comments below.

Four Grain Bourbon Blends With Four Roses, Old Grand Dad, and Old Weller Antique

A long time ago on a trip to New York City, a friend of mine introduced me to Hudson Four Grain Bourbon Whiskey. While I don’t remember being too enthusiastic about it, it was interesting. Ever since that trip I’ve tossed around the idea of creating my own four grain Bourbon blend…at a higher proof.

There aren’t too many wheated Bourbons in my collection that I’d (1) want to waste by blending them with something else and/or (2) thought had a character that would stand up and dance with a high rye Bourbon, but what I did know was that I had a few high rye bourbons I wanted to mellow out.

Let’s review the lineup…

Old Weller Antique 107

I recently put this up in a blind taste test and was impressed at how well it fared. My tasting notes in that post don’t reflect my complete sentiments, but the lineup and its rank should be enough to say I think this is a great bourbon. It has an even mix of corn, wood, and dried fruit, but could use a little bulk.

Grade: B+

Old Grand Dad 114

Not bad but rough around the edges with a flat, astringent nose that carries an unusual dry oak character. The body is thin and finishes on the bitter side. I don’t want to imply that I don’t like it, but I’m hoping something sweet might do it justice.

Grade: C+

Four Roses OBSQ

I chose this as both a comparison and a whiskey I actually thought would marry well with a wheat profile. The Q yeast produces a relaxed whiskey that brings out beautiful rye in a unique fashion. It has an unusual character that is most apparent through a floral and peppery finish that comes forward to what feels like the roof of the mouth and dissipates evenly.

This particular selection is from Beaumont Kroger in Lexington, Kentucky. Aged 10 years and 4 months and bottled at 61.6% ABV. (Thank you Pam for the heads up on this steal at ~$40.)

Grade: B+

Now on to the main event (yes there was beer cheese)…

four grain bourbon blending

Blend #1: OGDOWA “Antique Grandpa”

A 50/50 blend of Old Grand-Dad 114 & Old Weller Antique 107, 110.5%

Right from the start the astringency on the Old Grand-Dad nose is muted from the nose, but there’s a new off note that I can’t put my finger on. Maybe oiled saddle leather?

A bouquet of dried fruit is big and pleasant, but the sweetness of the Weller I hoped would shine through is cut by wood, and then back to that leather. This does sweeten over time, but not enough.

The palate enters sweet and creamy, but lasts only for a moment as rye notes fall to the sides of the tongue just before the bitter finish of the Old Grand-Dad takes over.

Grade: C

Blend #2: 4ROWA “Wheat Rose”

A 50/50 blend of Four Roses OBSQ & Old Weller Antique 107, 115.1%

There are faint buttery notes in the Weller that are brought to the forefront and mingle very nicely with the rye from the OBSQ. Very nice cedar notes present a harmonious honeyed wood nose in this blend. A bit of a burn up front from the high proof, but it’s beautiful and brings forward the cask and age of the Four Roses.

On the palate the heat from the rye is toned down a few notches but, the fuzzy, dry mouth feel is heightened as caramel lingers on the tip of the tongue. If I were a scientist I’d study this in more detail, it’s fantastic and cues up a gorgeous, long finish.

Grade: B+

Comments

Antique Grandpa: Not that good. Looks like cocktails and blind tastings from here on out for the Old Grand-Dad 114.

Wheat Rose: The age of the Four Roses definitely gives the ensemble a huge advantage in terms of comparison, but on it’s own it’s actually a solid whiskey. I’ll even venture to say this might be a little better at ratio of 55% OWA / 45% OBSQ. Definitely more experimenting with these in the future. I’d recommend doing the same if you can.

Cheers!